The Hidden Indian Paradise

Flying from Delhi to Leh in October last year in the only civilian carrier of Indian Airlines was a tremendous experience by itself. As the aircraft hovered below 8000 meters nearing the hidden-among-mountains city of Leh, we could view the majestic snow covered peaks of the mighty Himalayan Mountain Range. As the aircraft lowered its altitude, the peaks came closer to us and we were flying amongst the tall and gigantic mountains. Within ten minutes, the small and brown colored city of Leh appeared as a forcible inhabitant on the feet of the mountains, at an altitude of 2000m above sea level. The airport had a single runway which is open only 7 to 8 months a year. The airport is maintained by the Indian Air Force, and hence we could sight one jumbo IAF Cargo carrier waiting to take to flight. The female captain of our flight announced, “Welcome to Leh. We are 2560m above sea level and the temperature outside is 5 degrees Celsius!”

As the flight door opened, we could feel the temperature gushing inside, as all the passengers, most of them military personnel, took to their warm clothing. We took a taxi to the city center, just 2 miles away from the airport. I could already feel the beauty of the place as the mountains were staring at us and the snow peaks appeared just a little away from us. There was stream of water flowing down from the mountains, unbelievably chill, and the roads were empty. Our chauffer told us that it was coldest day of the winter. Within an hour, it started snowing, the first snowfall of the season! We were lucky to witness snowfall; my first. We were accommodated in one of the many lodges the city has.


[Left to right (Click to enlarge): Himalayas from Leh city; The 5000m Gonpa between mountains; The Gonpa]

Our sight-seeing of the beautiful Ladakh started the next morning. The sun was out very brightly, and the temperatures rose to 10 degrees C. We hired a taxi and set off in search for the beautiful monasteries (called Gonpas) which are the major attraction of Ladakh. The peculiarity of these monasteries is their location. They are all located on the highest possible peaks of the smaller of the hidden mountains. Why? The monks wanted privacy, serene and undisturbed environment. We saw four famous Gonpas in the vicinity of the capital Leh. We had to travel alongside the Indus River, which originates from the Himalayas and flows into Pakistan. Incidentally, the entire film, Lakshya, was shot in that area.

We traveled through absolutely beautiful roads, with mountains scaling the background, dotted with bases and bunkers of the Indian Army and bombed and dilapidated buildings of small villages. These roads are used mostly by the Indian Army to transport men and materials.

The Gonpas were very well maintained, the best being the Thicksey Gonpa, which has the 20 meter long statue of one of the Lamas. The Gonpas housed monks of age varying from 10 to 60 years. Our last stop was the monastery situated at 5000 m above sea level. We had to cross the Indus and drive our car in the 2nd gear all the way up to that height. And believe me, the monastery is absolutely invisible from the outside! It is so well hidden between the mountains that no one can spot it. Climbing up to the Gonpa on foot was hell tiring.

We were back all exhausted. The best part of the place is the people. The people of Leh are so very wonderful, clean-hearted and generous, that I feel very fortunate to carry back memories of the warm hospitality and affection they showered on us. One word I remember of the Ladakhi language is juley, which is a multi-purpose word used for hello, good day, thank you and bye! The market-place was the crowdest part of the city. We were also told that there was a film shooting going on near the city starring bollywood hero, Sunny Deol. The other places of interest in the city of Leh are the majestic Leh Palace and the Shanti Stupa. The entire city could be seen from the Stupa.


[Left to right (Click to enlarge): The Monk Statue; lovely scenery; the city of Leh from Leh Palace]

Apart from the monumental heritage, the most invigorating part of Ladakh is the stupendous natural beauty, in the form of snow-clad mountains, cold-rock landscape, lovely tall pines, contrasting brown and yellow trees, colorful city and calm and peaceful undisturbed nature. The visit to Leh was an unforgetful and refreshing experience for a nature-lover like me. Ladakh surely is the Hidden Indian Paradise.

Suggestions: Visit during summer (March-May). Carry heavy woolen wear. Air is the only way to reach Leh. People with altitude sickness avoid visiting. The cold there is dry cold, so carry moisturizers. Be prepared to not take bath for 2-3 days!